Ref T4045. Ref T5179. While we'll eventually need to force a migration, we can let installs (particularly large installs) do an online migration for now. This moves hunks to the new storage format one at a time.
(Note that nothing writes to the new store yet, so this is the only way to populate it.)
WARNING: Installs, don't run this yet! It won't compress the data. Wait until it can also do compression.